Better known for fine wool and its tranquil pace of life, Rylstone might seem like an unlikely setting for a world-class winery. But maybe that’s its secret. For the de Beaurepaire family, Rylstone wasn’t just a blank canvas, it was the result of a meticulous search for the perfect terroir, bringing their French winemaking vision to life.
The de Beaurepaire family traces its wine roots back to Burgundy. Their old-world philosophy emphasises the vineyard over the winemaker, a concept that is baked into their approach. “In France, you grow wine. There isn’t even a word for ‘winemaker,’” says Will de Beaurepaire.
This ethos drives their regenerative farming practices and minimal intervention winemaking, allowing the Rylstone terroir to shine through. Today, De Beaurepaire wines operates a 55-hectare vineyard producing 18 French-style wines.
Over 27 years ago, Richard and Janet de Beaurepaire set out to create something extraordinary. They bypassed the established wine region of the Yarra Valley where they had family connections, in search of a site that truly mirrored Burgundy’s limestone-rich soils and cool climate. That search led them to Rylstone, where Kandos’ famous cement mines hinted at the prized limestone beneath the surface.
“Our family is originally from Burgundy – Beaurepaire-en-Bresse to be exact – and we’ve always had a deep connection to its wine culture,” Will explains. “Site selection is everything. It’s the soil, the climate, the aspect, even the culture of the region. The tiniest differences in terroir can create the difference between a $20 bottle of wine and a $1,000 one. That’s why we take an old-world, vineyard-driven approach, rather than the winemaker-driven style you often see in Australia.”
This philosophy drove the de Beaurepaires to prioritise terroir above all else, leading them to Rylstone’s cold, continental climate, which is often 4 to 5 degrees cooler than nearby Mudgee. The area’s limestone-enriched slopes sealed the decision. “It was like a light going off,” Will recalls. “We knew we’d found the site.”
The move wasn’t without its challenges. “Rylstone had no history of grape-growing,” Will says. “It would have made more sense to set up in the Yarra Valley, where our family already had vineyards and there’s an established winemaking community. But being one of 100 wineries in the Yarra means you’re part of a scene that’s more about the ‘make’ than the ‘grow.’ Our origins are French, our preferences are French, and we wanted to honour that by finding a place with the right characteristics to let the terroir shine.”
“It wasn’t about finding a convenient location – it was about creating something truly unique and letting the terroir tell the story”, Will says.
In 2018, De Beaurepaire Wines made history. Their 2016 Coeur d’Or Botrytis Semillon claimed Australian Wine of the Year from Winestate Magazine. Not only was it the first time a sweet wine had won, but it was also the first win for a New South Wales vineyard. “It was surreal,” Will says. “We never imagined a sweet wine would take the top spot, let alone ours.”
But the accolades are just one part of the story. Along with unique tasting experiences, the de Beaurepaires also host exclusive dinners in Sydney, bringing their wines to the city’s internationally lauded dining scene. These carefully curated events showcase the best of their range, paired with menus designed to complement their style. Over the years, these dinners have grown into a series of 40 events held annually across the East Coast of Australia and overseas, featuring collaborations with acclaimed chefs like Christine Manfield, Alain Ducasse, and Virginie Basselot.
From pioneering Rylstone’s first vineyard to becoming one of just four 5-star wineries in the Mudgee region (according to the Halliday Wine Companion), De Beaurepaire Wines is a testament to vision, determination, and respect for tradition. After the early days of carrying boxes of wine across Sydney, their wines now grace the tables of Australian and international luxurious hotels, restaurants, and bars.
“Rylstone may not have had a wine history, but that’s what makes it exciting,” Will says. “We’ve built something unique here, something that reflects not just our family’s heritage but the incredible potential of this land.”
